We went out late to catch the last night of the annual Fiesta Del Carmen – a tribute to the patron saint of fishermen. The celebrations actually last all week, but the last night is always spectacular. Walking down the hill from the Biosfera Center the noise became more intense, the streets more crowded. As we finally burst into the square all our senses were assailed – huge noise in front from the stage and from the fair behind. Wafting fumes of crepes, churros and burgers cooking, and flashing lights everywhere.
A band was playing on stage – a fabulous trio of male singers, backed by a full brass section and drums – the sound quality was brilliant and very, very loud. On the square in front of the stage I watched the people, mesmerised. Gorgeous young girls, wearing off the shoulder tops and flowing skirts ballooned by swivelling hips. A little Chinese boy riding his scooter round and round. Grandma and Grandpa, clearly in the rhythm, but moving a little stiffly, and all around the stage people watching people and moving bodies to the compulsive Latin beat.
We moved onto the fair and found the dancing bulls, one of the most amusing sights I have ever seen. Up to six people mount these mechanical devices which jerk and twist in time to music. They start slowly, with little jumps that jiggle unwary cleavages to the hilarity of all. The tempo then picks up, until the bulls suddenly twist one way and then the next, dumping most people unceremoniously in a heap onto the padded floor. I rode the bulls, determined to stay on and did so at a price – my thigh muscles remain in spasm as I write! We did all of the rides, but kept coming back time and again to watch the bulls.
Midnight closing, we moved to the harbour edge and the street lights flicked off in preparation for the fireworks. Thousands of people were sitting on the rocks in anticipation. The start was signalled by one huge rocket and then the main display began, with each cascade perfectly reflected on the still water. Men, women and children all looking into the sky, with the multi-coloured lights shining on smiling faces. A chorus of “Oohs†and “ahhs†building into a crescendo until the final, fabulous onslaught of rockets and starbursts were followed by spontaneous applause.
With the fireworks over, it was time for the party to really begin! Until the early hours we alternately used the rides on the fair, stopped for a drink or a bite, and listened to the fabulous music. All around there were smiling people, filled with joi de vivre – from great grandma to the smallest babies – generations enjoying a wonderful night out. There was a total absence of drunkenness or bad behaviour, no barging or queue-jumping. I fell into bed in the early hours and reflected that we sure know how to party in Lanzarote!
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